Greetings from Downunder,
We are currently nearing the end of our Australia adventures and are thus rather far up the coast in Airlie Beach which is the hopping off point for the paradise islands of the Whitsundays. We have been very busy since our last post and will try and squeeze it all in here without boring you too much!
We spent 3 days in Byron Bay after the previous post, which is a beautiful seaside town. We visited the most easterly point in Australia here....and then it rained and didn't stop for 3 days! So we whiled away the time any way we could and eventually just went for it and went to the beach in the rain which was great fun.
From Byron we headed north to Surfers Paradise where we very randonmly bumped into a friend from Uni called Simon who Liz and I played badminton with who is living and working there. We spent 5 days in Surfers Paradise (which ironically is one of the worst places for surfing in Oz as the surf is too rough with dangerous rips and dirty water) and Simon showed us the sights and sounds of Surfers and also took us on a drive to some rock pools further inland. This was a brilliant afternoon out (as we got driven and didn't have to think for once) and Simon entertained us with various rock jumping and waterfall sliding which Liz and I both declined offers to participate in. Simon also took us on a night out with his friends in Surfers too which was great fun and I learnt it was a huge error to mistake a Canadian for an American.
After a nice and entertaining 5 days in Surfers we then headed north to Brisbane over Easter weekend. Easter weekend proved a right pain as absolutely every hostel on the Gold Coast seemed to be full so we were stuck in the worst hostel in Australia which had bed bugs! However there was absolutely nothing we could do as there were no other beds available anywhere so we had to grin and bear it and get out after Easter weekend. All that aside Brisbane is a nice city and everybody very friendly with the highlight being a trip to a wildlife sanctuary where we stroked Koalas, hand fed kangaroos
and saw birds of prey, Lorikeets, Tasmanian Devils, Dingoes, Wombats and any other Aussie wildlife you can imagine which was a brilliant day out.
From Brisbane we went north to Noosa Heads which we both loved. It is a quiet beach town which is really rather posh with various celebrities owning houses over here and brilliant surf. We only spent 1 full day here though as we were in need of getting to Fraser Island pretty quickly. It has a brilliant national park right on the coast which we did a walk around for a few hours and watched the impressive waves and local wildlife.
From Noosa it was on north to Hervey Bay which is the jumping point to Fraser Island, the biggest sand island in the world...this is where the fun begins! After spending a couple of days waiting to get on a tour we commenced our trip on Friday 17th April. Fraser Island is the biggest sand island in the world created by longshore drift over millions of years and reputedly has more sand the the Sahara desert! As a result it means there are no roads as obviously everything is sand so the only way to get about is 4x4. We did a self drive tour where a hostel gets 9 backpackers and sticks them in the back of a huge 4x4, takes an imprint of a credit card, gives them the keys and a rough itinerary and away you go. Altogether there were 27 of us as there were 3 4x4s in our group (all bright pink).
Naturally having no 4x4 experience previously I wanted a go to see how hard/fun it was and I wasn't disappointed. I got my first go at driving once Jim had tackled the inland tracks on the beach. This I thought would be pretty easy as the sand is pretty hard and smooth but 2 minutes in I hear shouts from the back that a plane is trying to land on the beach and I look up and see a light aircraft about 10 metres above the ground coming straight at us! A quick manouvre later and I had pulled up at the side of the beach just in time for the aircraft to touch down where we were just driving... not something I've encountered before it has to be said! From then on I thought it would be pretty plain sailing along the hard sand but then the rocks loomed in the distant and I had to pick my way around/over the rocks in a 4x4 with no clue as to how much the car could handle. This is a video of me doing the rocks in reverse
. We then went to lake wabby and swam with the cat fish and drove up the beach some more to our camp site which was a lonely stretch of beach and put up our tents we had in the vans.
The next day after a pretty rubbish sleep we headed further north to go to Indian Heads, a lookout point but unfortunately we were unable to get through as the beach had been closed due to a horrendous accident where 10 minutes earlier another backpacker 4x4 had rolled while trying to dodge a wave and flipped over for 50 metres. It left 2 dead (1 Brit 1 Italian), 2 paralysed and the other 7 seriously injured! This really shocked us and made us realise just how unsafe what we were doing was as they were doing exactly the same thing as us, not being stupid or anything but just sheer inexperience of driving on sand caused this tragic accident. After that we took it very cautiously and tried not to let it affect us too much, although it appeared everybody we ran into were talking about it and we chatted to a few backpackers who had to help pick up the pieces, not nice.
We then went to the Maheno shipwreck which got blown ashore in a huge storm in the 30's and has lay there being pounded by the waves ever since, very spooky and onto Eli creek and then to set up camp. Another night of fun, frolics, dingoes stealing our rubbish and harrassing us in the night, rain and no sleep, we packed up camp and drove south to Lake Mackenzie. This is another lake perched on dead twigs and leaves from the rainforest (as normally no lake would exist as it would simply soak into the sand) and was really beautiful. Crystal clear blue waters and so refreshing to jump in. We spent the afternoon here and then drove the very bumpy inland tracks back to the boat to get back to the mainland. We had a fantastic time on fraser and met some brilliant people who were mostly in our car including 3 German guys (who were hilarious), a German girl, 2 other Brits from Halifax and an American (Jim).
After our fantastic 3 days we caught the bus north to Agnes water / Town of 1770 (the same place with a rather long name) and enjoyed 4 days of relaxing on the beach and enjoying the laid back atmosphere of this sleepy town. The hostel we stayed in called Cool Bananas was fantastic and they did a meal every night for $5 (2 pound 50) which is as cheap as buying the ingredients ourselves and cooking them (as Australia is very expensive for groceries etc) so we ate here every night. We also did a ride on a chopper bike which is a smaller version of a Harley Davidson which was fantastic fun and saw us in a line of 30 other bikers going 80km/h (or at least I was, Liz stuck to 60km/h as a maximum) for 3 hours seeing wild kangaroos on the way and stopping for sunset over the sea with potato wedges and a coke with everyone else, brilliant afternoon out.
From Agnes Water we then did an overnight bus for 10 hours north to Airlie Beach which is where we are now waiting to sail to the Whitsunday islands and see the paradise this has to offer. Liz went here when she was a kid and has said how good she remembered Daydream island being on Christmas Day when she was 6 so we are going to visit here again and see how much it has changed from 17 years ago.
That's all for now, the next update will probably be in our campervan in New Zealand.
Lots of love
simon and Liz x